Summer Lawncare

Whilst our summers may be unpredictable, a hot summer – or even a few days of above-average temperatures – brings some predictability: a scorched lawn. What may have been a sea of green has suddenly been replaced by a sub-standard imposter, and in desperation, we immediately start watering, in a futile attempt to restore it to its previous state, and no sooner have we committed to a regular routine, a hosepipe ban comes into force, and we’re left with a carpet of brown instead of the lush lawn we long for. 

We’ve discussed lawns before; we offered advice on the best ways to care for lawns during autumn and winter, and that mostly involved careful maintenance during spring and summer. Unsurprisingly, taking care of lawns in the summer starts with what we do in autumn and winter and continues with our efforts during the warmer weather. Making our grass more drought-resistant and swift to recover is key, and that involves several steps.

The most severe droughts will affect even the most resilient lawns to some degree, potentially damaging the roots, and if the grass dies and creates barren patches, weeds will be quick to fill the gaps when the rain returns. Whilst weeds can be beneficial to a certain extent – shielding surviving grass and in turn, its roots – it won’t be to everyone’s liking. Even without extreme temperatures, there will be a level of damage to grass from everyday use; we want to be outside more in the summer, entertaining friends and family, playing with children, even admiring our hard work, and all that extra footfall will leave a mark. The right amount of sun and rain isn’t always the answer either, as accelerated growth can potentially lead to insufficient nitrogen levels and a yellowing or patchy lawn. So are we expecting too much or is it possible to have the perfect lawn when it’s most needed? 

If you’re looking for a weed-free, blanket of green splendour, the type of grass you have will have a big impact: formal lawns tend to be a finer grass and more at risk from damage; domestic gardens, however, are generally more robust, but they’re not immune. When planning a new lawn, consider its use first to avoid any upset.         

The necessary care package, then, largely boils down to feeding, seeding and weeding, with a few extra considerations to help the 3 essentials on their way:

Feeding:
If you’ve treated your lawn to a late spring feed, a summer one shouldn’t be necessary, as the nutrients provided should be adequate for the warmer months; an excessively wet summer, however, could deplete the grass of those nutrients, and feeding may be needed to maintain a healthy lawn. When looking for a feed, be sure to find one suitable for summer use, preferably with a spreader to ensure even distribution – Safe Lawn is just that – and only apply when rain is due or when you’re able to water thoroughly; left on the surface, pelleted fertiliser will scorch the grass and cause as much damage as not using it! Liquid feeds are more of a quick-fix, and whilst almost instantly impactful, the results are unlikely to last.

Seeding:
Ideally, seeding should be done either side of the summer, but if you’re hit with a patch of dead lawn during the warmer months, you can either seed it or turf it. Both will require preparation of the patch and regular watering until established, and it’s possible to overseed your current lawn with a more resilient grass to help maintain it; avoid cutting new grass too until you’re sure it’s settled. Grass cuttings can be left on small, bare patches, and may well take root if the ground is not too hard.

Weeding:
Like fertilisers, weed-killers will do more harm than good if applied to a drought-affected lawn, so avoid using during the summertime and in the autumn after a hot summer; wait until the following spring, when weeds will become more prevalent and the grass will have had a chance to replenish what it needs in the winter months; individual weeds, however, can often be removed by hand. Lawn treatments may be enough to rid your lawn of unwanted guests, but again, they shouldn’t really be used if your lawn is already struggling.

With the basic requisites taken care of, the following actions will only improve your lawn’s prosects:

Watering:
No great surprises here, but what may come as a surprise is it’s not generally necessary. Unless you’ve laid a new lawn, brown grass doesn’t signify dead grass; an established lawn will soon return to a more favourable green when the rain comes, so if appearances are not so important, consider reserving water for plants. New turf or sown grass will need watering; little and often, though, will encourage shallow roots and lead to less drought-tolerant grass, so ensure your lawn gets a good soaking; watering during the day – particularly the hottest part – is counterproductive, so confine your watering to early mornings or late evenings, when evaporation is less likely. If a green, established lawn is needed for a special occasion, watering regularly within the guidelines as you would a new lawn, before damage is done – preferably with collected rainwater or grey water – should see the results you want.

Mowing:
Of course, during a prolonged drought, when grass turns brown, it will grow less and need less cutting; once a week should suffice, but that will depend greatly on how much it’s grown, and if it’s completely scorched, cutting should be completely avoided. Before it gets to that, though, raising the cutting height to between 5 and 10cm will help to protect it, retaining moisture and encouraging deeper rooting; sharp blades are also essential to prevent damaging the grass. Clippings can not only promote new growth, they can also act as a mulch, retaining much-needed moisture and providing nutrients to the soil as they decompose; they do, however, need to be fine clippings to avoid causing further damage.

Pests:
As with anything garden related, there’ll be some kind of pest responsible for causing damage, and in the main for lawns, that could be ants, chafer grubs, leatherjackets, moles or worms. Ants are generally good for the garden, aerating the soil, controlling other pests, part of a healthy ecosystem, but an infestation can lead to ant hills that not only look unsightly but create bare patches for weeds to commandeer; chafer grubs develop from chafer beetle eggs, laid in the lawn, and when they hatch, they feed on grass roots; not only does that have an adverse effect on lawns, a variety of animals and birds feed on them, causing further damage; leatherjackets are the larvae of crane flies, and they cause a similar problem by feeding on the roots of grass and becoming food for large predators; moles move around underground in search of their favourite meal: earthworms; tunnelling can create uneven ground, but it’s the burrowing to the surface that causes most damage. Mounds of soil are a giveaway, and although moles can be territorial, if their food sources reduce or there’s too much competition, they’ll move on elsewhere; worms like ants are great for aerating the lawn and will do a lot of good in the garden, but they can create unsightly casts on the surface.

There are many treatments available for dealing with pests, but it’s always best to speak to an expert first.

Aeration and Scarifying:
Heavy use of gardens in the warmer months can lead to compacted ground, and aside from creating bare patches, heavy rainfall in the autumn and winter could resulting in waterlogging, causing further damage; aeration can make all the difference, and you don’t need anything other than a garden fork. Punching 10cm holes with the fork, around 10cm apart, will open the ground, sending nutrients and water to the roots and allowing them to breathe, and aerating a couple of times a year – late spring and autumn – is generally enough. With heavier soils like clay, it’s advisable to add sharp sand or fine horticultural grit to the holes to help ease further issues and aerate a little more often. Scarifying – dethatching to remove dead grass and moss – should also be done a couple of times a year, and although scarifiers are available, it’s possible to achieve a good result with a rake.

If the effort of maintaining a picture-perfect lawn is too much, there are many alternatives that can be just as picturesque without water and without the slog:

Drought-resistant plants like alpines
Gravel
Ground-cover plants like Clover
Paving
Wildflower meadow

Grass continues to be the favourite garden surface, and there’s a certain opulence to the sight of a perfectly-coloured and perfectly-manicured lawn, but maybe it’s about time we allowed nature to ebb and flow, embrace the dessert-like shade of a typical summer garden, and allow plants to add vibrancy instead… or maybe a water feature or some garden ornaments… wall art, planters, garden stakes? Or, maybe, all of the above… just a thought.